unfettered and alive

We are now in Paris and its April and there are cherry- or are they chestnut? - trees in bloom everywhere and there is intermittent rain, but not in a cold way, just enough to give it that classic Parisian atmosphere and not enough to keep us indoors.

My girlfriend has shown a knack for renting perfect apartments in just the right place. In Barcelona we were in the old gothic quarter, on a narrow alley in the midst of a maze of streets only open to foot traffic. Here in Paris, we are up three – or is it four? – flights of ancient stairs in a sweet apartment above the Rue des Rivoli, a few blocks from the Seine.

Our apartment overlooks an old courtyard, and couldn’t be lovelier except for the fact that it’s about half the price of any “moderate” hotel. Thank the Goddess for Craigslist and a savvy girlfriend. Oh, and by the way, the dollar is at an all time low. There will be no shopping sprees on this trip. The treasures we will be bringing home will be the memories.

We are in the Marais, the old Jewish district. It was here that many Parisian Jews were rounded up and sent off to Auschwitz. The Jewish delicatessens and synagogues are back, amidst the high class boutiques. Although most delis were closed for Passover, Finkelsztajns was open. At our small table on Rue de Rosiers, amidst throngs of shoppers, we celebrated freedom from slavery and honored the turning of history with some gefilte fish, chopped liver and matzo. The Marais is now not only the Jewish district, but queer as well. Orthodox men in black hats walk in peace amongst men in the latest fashion holding hands. And us, too, of course! We toasted with our glasses of water and gave thanks that being a queer Pagan and a Jew, we feel and are so free.